Royal Munich: the Residenz and Nymphenburg

Munich’s table is Bavarian at heart — Weisswurst with sweet mustard before noon, pretzels the size of plates, Obatzda cheese spread, Schweinsbraten with knödel, and the seasonal fish and game of the surrounding uplands — but the city now eats far beyond the classics, with Italian, Vietnamese, Middle Eastern and modern-German kitchens across the centre and Schwabing.

Around Marienplatz and Viktualienmarkt you eat well without planning: the market itself mixes permanent stalls with seated beer garden tables, and the surrounding lanes hold everything from beer halls to small modern kitchens. The classic beer halls — Hofbräuhaus, Augustiner am Platzl and their kin — serve full Bavarian menus in vaulted halls; reserve or arrive early, because the tourist flow is heavy at lunch and in festival season.

Beer gardens are Munich’s democratic dining room and deserve treatment as meals, not stops. The rules of the culture: chestnut-shaded tables, shared benches, self-service food counters (or bring your own snack and buy only the beer), and the cleanliness of returning your stein. The Viktualienmarkt beer garden, the Chinesischer Turm and Seehaus in the Englischer Garten, and the Aumeister at the park’s northern end are the classic cluster; smaller neighbourhood gardens in Haidhausen and Giesing feel more local.

Schwabing remains the café and student quarter for breakfast and late evenings, while Glockenbachviertel carries the most inventive small-restaurant scene close to the centre. For a splurge, the Residenz-adjacent block and Maximilianstrasse hold the fine-dining rooms. Veggie and vegan coverage is excellent by German standards across all quarters.

Altstadt (old town) puts you inside the postcard — steps from Marienplatz, the Frauenkirche and the Residenz — and is the right base for a first, short visit. It is also the most expensive and the noisiest at festival time; book far ahead for September.

Maxvorstadt, the Kunstareal quarter north of the old town, suits museum travellers: the Pinakotheken, the Residenz museum quarter’s northern edge and the university cafés are all walkable, and hotel rates run calmer than inside the Altstadt.

Glockenbachviertel and Isarvorstadt, south of the centre, are the independent, café-and-bar quarters — smaller hotels and apartments, riverbank walks at the end of the street, and the liveliest evening scene within walking distance of Marienplatz.

Haidhausen, east across the Isar, is the quiet favourite: elegant 19th-century streets, the Wiener Platz market, fast S-Bahn or a pleasant river walk into the centre, and noticeably lower prices. For late arrivals and trade-fair travellers, the area around the Hauptbahnhof is practical though charmless. Camping: thecity’s classic site is Campingplatz Thalkirchen (U-Bahn-connected, on the Isar’s southern edge, open year-round), with the smaller Olympiapark camping option to the north — both put the whole city within a U-Bahn ride.