he Chiemsee is Bavaria’s largest lake — a 80-square-kilometre shallow sea ringed by the Chiemgau Alps, its two islands carrying two of Bavaria’s best stories. On the Herreninsel stands King Ludwig II’s Herrenchiemsee: the “Bavarian Versailles”, his last and largest palace, an untended homage to the Sun King built on an island and left unfinished at his death — its Mirror Hall exceeding Versailles’ own, its rooms a fever dream of absolutism without a kingdom. On the Fraueninsel, a 15-hectare speck of fishing village and Benedictine abbey (the Frauenwörth convent, founded 782, Bavaria’s oldest) keeps a living community of nuns, artists and anglers — the famous Reuter Roundel ceramics, the smokehouse fish, the lane that circles the island in twenty minutes. Around them the lake runs its beaches, cycle paths and boat lines: the Chiemsee’s day is the boat between islands with the Alps on every horizon, and its evenings are the beer gardens and lake beaches of Prien, Seebruck and Übersee.