GERMANY

Weisses Bräuhaus — Weisswurst and sweet mustard at the house that brews the wheat beer, since 1872

Viktualienmarkt beer garden — the market’s own tables under the chestnuts, the city’s democratic dining room

Augustiner am Platzl — Munich’s oldest brewery (1328) pouring from wooden barrels in the old town

Glockenbachviertel bistros — the city’s most inventive kitchens south of the centre

Alte Mainbrücke wine stands — a glass of Steinwein on the old bridge, the town’s essential ritual

Weinstuben of the Juliusspital — the hospital’s own estate wines under the baroque cellar vaults

Ratskeller Würzburg — Franconian classics in the vaults under the town hall, since 1576

Backöfele — the small student kitchen off the market, fränkische Brotzeit at its truest

Hotel Bayerischer Hof — the grand 1841 hotel off Promenadeplatz, home of the Munich Security Conference

Hotel Marienplatz — modern comfort steps from the Marienplatz clock and the Viktualienmarkt

Motel One Sendlinger Tor — reliable budget design hotel at the southern old-town gate

Hotel Ryder — hip Kimpton property between the Hauptbahnhof and the Augustiner Keller beer garden

Maritim Hotel Würzburg — directly at the Residence, the practical first-choice base

Hotel Bachlein — family-run three-star in the old town, minutes from both the bridge and the market

Best Western Premier Rebstock — historic inn on the market since 1712, wine-country elegance

Veitshöchheim guesthouses — across the Main by the rococo garden, quieter and cheaper