Walhalla and the Danube

Regensburg eats and drinks like the river city it is: grilled sausages at the Wurstkuchl — grilling by the Stone Bridge since the 12th century, the world’s oldest open-air grill, served with sauerkraut and sweet mustard at plank tables over the Danube — plus the Franconian-Bavarian canon of roast pork, dumplings and pretzel culture, and the Danube fish tradition at the city’s older tables.

The Historic Wurstkuchl is the essential (touristy and tiny, but the ritual is the point); nearby the Spital brewery — run by a medieval hospital foundation — pours its own beer under the towers, and the Kneitinger Brauhaus and Thurn und Taxis’ own cellar carry the city’s three-brewery tradition.

The old town’s lanes hide the range: the Haidplatz’s café square for breakfast, the Dachauplatz’s modern kitchens, the Stadtamhof quarter across the bridge for the quieter riverside tables. Leberkässemmel from the Viktualienmarkt-style market hall is the walking lunch.

Sweet Regensburg: the Prinzenküche’s historic pastries and the chocolate makers around the Neupfarrplatz. Camping travellers: the AZUR site’s kiosk covers basics and the No. 1 bus puts the old town’s tables at the campsite’s door in fifteen minutes; the Wurstkuchl’s picnic tables by the river work with your own supplies too.

The old town inside the walls is the right base: UNESCO lanes, the Dom and the bridge all walkable, hotels in patrician houses and merchant courtyards — the Sorat and the Orphée’s hotel wing are the classic addresses. Summer weekends book up with the festival calendar.

The Stadtamhof quarter just across the Stone Bridge trades a five-minute walk for quieter streets and softer rates, with the river view at the window.

The station quarter (south of the walls) holds the business hotels and the cheapest beds — fifteen minutes’ walk to the Dom, unbeatable for rail arrivals.

Camping: AZUR Camping Regensburg (at Weinweg on the Danube’s western edge, year-round, bus No. 1 to the old town) is the city’s standard site with riverside pitches; the smaller Stadtamhof riverside spots suit van travelers. Book ahead for the Bürgerfest week in July.