Kamnik’s history is the history of a town that once punched far above its size. The settlement grew at the foot of the Kamnik–Savinja Alps on the road between the Ljubljana basin and the alpine valleys, and by the late medieval period it had become one of the most important trading towns in the Slovene lands — a market and minting place under the Counts of Andechs, who held the town in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries and made it a regional centre of real weight. In that period Kamnik rivalled Ljubljana itself: the town was walled, it minted its own coin, and its markets drew the trade of the upper Sava and Kamniška Bistrica basins. The old defensive walls, whose surviving stretches still shape the old core, belong to this period, as does Mali grad — the “small castle” on the rock above the town, the older of Kamnik’s two castles, whose surviving two-storey Romanesque chapel of St Eligius is the town’s most precious medieval interior. The town’s decline was as steep as its rise: the trade routes shifted, the ruling families died out, and Kamnik contracted back into a small county town beneath the mountains, leaving the walls, the chapel and the street of old houses as the record of a more important past. The Franciscan monastery, founded in the fifteenth century, and its historic library belong to the town’s religious and learned layer. Zaprice Castle, the Renaissance residence at the lower edge of the town grown from an earlier medieval fortification, now houses the Intermunicipal Museum Kamnik, the regional collection that tells the town’s story and the story of the surrounding area. Above the town, Velika Planina carries a different and older history: a high-alpine pastoral settlement whose herdsmen’s huts and transhumance tradition survived into the present, one of the most complete living examples of alpine summer dairying in Europe. Today the old town, the two castles, the monastery and the pasture are all preserved together, and Kamnik reads as a single medieval place beneath its mountains — a town whose history is read in its stones and in the meadows above it.