Rome has two airports: Fiumicino (Leonardo da Vinci), the main hub with a direct Leonardo Express train to Termini station in 32 minutes; and Ciampino, used by low-cost carriers, with bus connections to Termini. High-speed trains connect Rome to Florence (1h30), Naples (1h10), Milan (3h) and Bologna (2h).
Book the Colosseum/Forum/Palatine combined ticket, the Vatican Museums and the Galleria Borghese online in advance. The Borghese has timed two-hour slots and limited numbers, so it must be booked ahead even for a chance of entry.
Allow at least three full days. Rome rewards slow visits — the major sites alone (Colosseum, Forum, Vatican, Pantheon, Borghese) fill that time, and a fourth day lets you wander.
April to June and late September to October are ideal — mild, bright and less crowded. Avoid July and August if you can: the heat and the queues combine to make the major sites hard work. Winter is quiet, mild and cheap, with shorter queues at the Colosseum and the Vatican.
Sturdy shoes for the uneven cobbles and the ruins, a refillable water bottle for the nasoni (the city’s drinking fountains), and modest clothing for churches — shoulders and knees covered for St Peter’s and the Pantheon.
The historic centre is largely cobblestoned and the ancient sites are uneven, which makes wheelchair access difficult; the Vatican Museums and St Peter’s are the most accessible of the major sites, with lifts and ramps. Many pavements are narrow and traffic can be heavy.