Cross the Tiber to Trastevere at dusk

Roscioli — a celebrated salumeria and trattoria near Campo de’ Fiori, Roman pastas and a peerless cheese counter

Armando al Pantheon — classic Roman cooking a stone’s throw from the Pantheon, book ahead

Da Enzo al 29 — the most loved of Trastevere’s honest trattorias, no-fuss carbonara and saltimbocca

Pizzarium — Gabriele Bonci’s by-the-slice pizza al taglio near the Vatican, arguably Rome’s best

Two Sizes — thin Roman-style pizza by the slice, eaten standing, near the Spanish Steps

Hotel Locarno — a Liberty-style hotel near Piazza del Popolo, with a leafy courtyard and a rooftop

Hotel Raphael — a boutique hotel off Piazza Navona with a rooftop terrace over the rooftops

The Fifteen Keys Hotel — a small design hotel in Monti, a quiet base within walking distance of the Forum

Generator Rome — a stylish hostel near Termini, good value for a central stay