Climb to the castle for sunset and the Onufri icons — then dinner inside the walls.

Lilaj — the Berat institution on the river: grilled lamb, local wine, tables under the trees.

Portik — old-town cooking in a stone cellar: fërgesë, stuffed peppers, kabuni rice.

Muzaka café row on the boulevard — coffee, lake-view none but castle-view yes, and the local kashta-cream sweets.

Çobo winery tables — the Berat-region family winery a short drive out of town.

Berat Backpackers Hostel & Guesthouses — the restored Mangalem houses, rooms with the thousand-window view.

Hotel Onufri — inside the castle walls themselves, breakfast overlooking the valley.

Mangalemi Hotel — the classic stone guesthouse at the quarter’s foot.

Riverside hotels across the Gorica bridge — quiet rooms facing the old town.