ALBANIA

Seafront restaurants along the Lungomare — grilled fish and seafood by the water, busiest in summer evenings.

Traditional kitchens in the centre away from the promenade — lakror, spit-roast meats and everyday Albanian cooking at local prices.

Beachfront seafood on the sand — grilled fish, octopus and pasta at the beach-club kitchens as the string lights come on.

Traditional tavernas up in the old village — slow-cooked mountain and coastal plates, local wine and hillside terraces.

Seafood tavernas on the Spile waterfront — grilled octopus and the day’s catch on decks over the water; the coast’s best taverna row.

Family tavernas in Potam and Potami village — Greek-leaning kitchen, grilled fish and mezze away from the promenade prices.

Tavernas on the Qeparo seafront — grilled fish and garden vegetables dressed in the plain’s own olive oil.

Beach restaurants at the Borsh village end — seafood risotto, pizzas and slow lunches with the seven-kilometre beach in front.

Hotels on the Lungomare promenade — beach, cafés and the evening walk from the door; the quieter southern end is the better swim base.

The historic centre around Flag Square — the grand-hotel atmosphere and walking distance to the monuments and the port.

Boutique hotels and guesthouses in the old village — stone houses, sea-view terraces, the quiet and atmospheric base.

Beachfront hotels on the sand — beach clubs, pools and the water at the door for the full summer scene.

Boutique hotels and guesthouses between Spile and the centre — sea-view rooms, tavernas and the xhiro promenade at the door.

Beach hotels and family camps at Livadhi and Potami — sand-first stays for beach days, quieter than the town strip.

Restored guesthouses and villas in Old Qeparo — stone houses, orchard terraces and the coast’s quietest views.

Beach hotels and resorts at Borsh village — seafront pools and the long sand at the door.