Swim the pools below Grunas waterfall on a hot afternoon.

Guesthouse kitchens of Theth — the fixed mountain table: home-made cheese, Byrek, mountain tea, rakia.

Shpella Guesthouse restaurant — trout from the Shala and the valley’s best fërgesë.

Cafés at the village crossroads — espresso and honey pancakes after the morning walk.

Shpella Guesthouse — the classic: stone rooms, mountain breakfast, hosts who guide the pass.

Guesthouse Nika & Lila — family rooms at the village edge, garden tables under the peaks.

The new alpine lodges along the river — en-suite comfort steps from the trailheads.