Away from the coast road, Istria’s interior is a riding secret: serpentine climbs to hilltop towns, white-truffle forests above the Mirna river, olive-groved plateaus and the extraordinary light of the western coast at Rovinj before the run down to Pula.
This ride collects Istria’s three personalities. The inland start at Motovun — a bell-towered medieval hilltown over the Mirna valley — descends through the truffle woods of the Motovun forest to the river plain, then climbs again through wine villages towards the coast. At Rovinj the road hugs the archipelago’s pine-fringed shoreline, arguably the most beautiful urban coastline in Croatia, before the final southern run to Pula, whose Roman arena completes the day. Narrow local roads and farm traffic in harvest season keep the pace civilised; the reward is Istria at its most atmospheric.